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Tools
1. 3D-Printer & Compatible Software.
This can be almost any type of 3D-printer, as long as it is capable of printing the most common types of 3D files (.OBJ, .STL, etc.)
2. Electric Skillet.
2. Electric Skillet.
This will really come in handy when we need to perform Acetone Vapor Deposition to get our terrain pieces to be reasonably smooth. Note that you CANNOT use any kind of heat source that involves an open flame of ANY kind.
3. Old Pot/Pan.
3. Old Pot/Pan.
This will hold the acetone while we heat it.
4. Various Paintbrushes.
You want an assortment of various brushes for this project, including small, fine-tipped brushes for small details and larger, broader brushes for applying base coats. A stiff, old brush you don't much care about is also very helpful for applying texture paints.
5. Small Plastic Spatulas.
These aren't exactly required, but they are extremely helpful for applying the thicker mud texture paints that really get smeared rather than painted on. A plastic knife or fork will also work perfectly well!
6. Pliers. These will come in handy when you're performing acetone vapor deposition.
7. Latex Gloves. When performing acetone vapor deposition, you don't want to risk burning your skin, either through contact with the acetone or its boiling vapors.
7. Latex Gloves. When performing acetone vapor deposition, you don't want to risk burning your skin, either through contact with the acetone or its boiling vapors.
Materials & Supplies
1. 3D-Printing Filament.
This is the actual material from which your terrain will be constructed. For this tutorial, make sure that you use ABS filament--this is one of the more common types of filament, and is a type of plastic which can be actually melted by the acetone.
2. 'The Masters' Brush Cleaner & Preserver.
2. 'The Masters' Brush Cleaner & Preserver.
While not really a 'must-have,' it will do a great job of cleaning your brushes and helping to keep them in good condition.
3. The Files.
While you are perfectly free to make and print your own 3D models, there are plenty of people out there who have put in the time and work needed to create some really cool models. Here are the links to the two models used in this Instructable:
Vampire Tree:
Trench:
4. Paint.
This is where you really have the most freedom to improvise in this Instructable; I had a particular look in mind for when I decided to paint these, but your vision for your project may be entirely different. In case you want to copy certain aspects of my color scheme, however, I'll go ahead and list the paints below. All of these are acrylic.
Citadel Paints:
Ushabti Bone
Citadel Paints:
Ushabti Bone
Seraphim Sepia
Agrax Earthshade
Nuln Oil
Ryza Rust
Nurgle's Rot
Caliban Green
Underhive Ash
Blood for the Blood God
Typhus Corrosion
Leadbelcher
Reaper Paints:
Reaper Paints:
Field Grey
Concrete Grey
Vallejo Weathering Effects Paints:
Brown Thick Mud
Light Brown Mud
5. Tamiya Extra-Thin Cement. This is a clear, thin, acetone-based glue that can be used for repairs if parts of the ABS plastic pieces break off at any time. Note that it will remove any paint with which it comes into contact, so make sure you perform your gluing before you complete your beautiful paint job!
6. Hobby Knife and Sandpaper. These will be exceptionally useful for removing excess bits of plastic which often result from the 3d-Printing process.
7. Acetone. You won't need a whole lot for this process, but this does depend on the amount of terrain which you will be producing.